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AVOID THE BUS

Sixteen hours on a bus is not fun in the best circumstances. Vietnamese roads combined with local bus drivers' penchants for mercilessly beeping their horns makes it worse.

If you can afford it I recommend you fly to your next destination, but if you are on a tight budget look at it this way, anything that doesn't kill you can only make you stronger.

Stiff and cranky after a fitful night's sleep contorted into orthopaedically precarious positions, Hanoi was a welcome sight.

When my neck unkinked itself I saw that Hanoi was an amazing city filled with culture, history, architecture, wonderful French and Vietnamese cuisine and great shopping.

Having spent two weeks previously sweltering in tropical heat, we were unprepared for the cool weather in Hanoi. We found ourselves recycling our one warm ensemble for an entire week.

The heavy mists that accompanied the cool spell settled over the Hoan Kiem Lake, which dominated Hanoi's old quarter, and lent the city a mystical ambience.